The U.S. protests against systemic racism have spread around the globe, with millions of people marching together over the fact that black men and women are still facing discrimination because of the colour of their skin. And that people like Breonna Taylor, George Floyd and Elijah McClain have been killed by police without the officers responsible facing enough — if any —prosecution or accountability.
Frustrated and angry, many of us turned to social media to express our solidarity for the people whose lives are continually impacted by racism.
But posting black squares to Instagram on #BlackoutTuesday is not enough, nor is a hashtag.
Duro Olowu
Often referred to as “the prince of prints”, London-based Nigerian designer Duro Olowu is beloved by many A-listers. Notable among them include Michelle Obama, Solange Knowles and Iris Apfel.
“My prints are inspired by my Nigerian, Jamaican, and British backgrounds, as well as my love of art,” he said in an interview to promote his collab with Estee Lauder. “Over the years, I have developed a curatorial and enthusiastic knowledge of historic and contemporary fabrics and textiles from all over the world.”
Hanifa
Teen Vogue “Generation Next” alum Anifa Mvuemba launched Hanifa in 2012 and has been releasing ever since. The Congolese designer recently made headlines for showing her new collection on Instagram Live via 3-D models — an innovative move that she had planned before the stay-at-home orders.
Heron Preston
Known for his workwear-inspired designs, San-Francisco-born designer Heron Preston has worked with all the streetwear giants, from Kanye West to Nike and Virgil Abloh. Now, Preston, a CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year nominee, shows his collections during Paris Fashion Week and is beloved by A-listers including Ariana Grande and Gigi Hadid.
Hope For Flowers
Created by iconic designer Tracy Reese, Hope For Flowers is a womenswear label that’s wholly dedicated to designing clothing without adding to the environmental impact of the fashion industry, encouraging women to be “a part of doing good while looking good.”
Kenneth Ize
Kenneth Ize was catapulted to the fashion stage after becoming an LVMH prize finalist. Since then, the Austrian-Nigerian designer has shown at Paris and Lagos Fashion Week. During the latter, Naomi Campbell and Imaan Hammam both not only supported Ize’s Nigerian-inspired designs, but modelled them. He works with artisans in Nigeria to preserve centuries-old weaving techniques, merging a specifically local handcraft practice with a contemporary design aesthetic and new production skills.
Maki Oh
Designer Amaka Osakwe has fans in high places and was personally invited to the White House after Michelle Obama wore one of her designs in Johannesburg. Another finalist for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, Maki Oh blends African craftsmanship (like adire, Nigerian cloth dyeing) with classic European silhouettes to celebrate empowerment and convey emotion.
“Clothing used to be a form of communication,” she told Fast Company. “Cloth would allow you to make a statement, like, ‘I’m happy that you’re here,’ or ‘I’m sorry about what I did earlier.’ ” And though none of her womenswear pieces are currently available, her men’s pieces convey the same sentiment.
Nichole Lynel
Nichole Lynel is an independent fashion designer who turned her clothing line, Shop Nichole Lynel, into a million-dollar lifestyle brand. The young entrepreneur has two fashion businesses; her namesake brand, which offers fun wardrobe must-haves, and NL The Label. Consider the latter as the cool, older sister whose closet consists of both destroyed denim trimmed in rhinestone fringe and an elegant nude pantsuit — basically everything a younger sibling would want to borrow.
Oma the Label
Oma The Label is a clothing and accessories brand slinging sexy statement staples. The brand was created in 2018 by New York-based stylist Neumi Anekhe who saw a need for more brands representing people of colour at affordable prices. Trust us, you’ll want everything.
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PHLEMUNS
With fans including Paloma Elsesser and Lil Nas X, L.A.-based, gender-inclusive brand PHLEMUNS is the label to know right now. James Flemons, the designer behind the Gen Z favourite fashion brand is more interested in creating a community with longevity, rather than just clothing.
“I treat the clothes as these timeless stamps that will last,” he says on his website. “It’s like I’m leaving breadcrumbs of myself that will exist forever.”
Pyer Moss
In 2018 Kerby Jean-Raymond, founder of Pyer Moss, won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, the most prestigious prize awarded to an emerging designer in the U.S. The Haitian-American has always been a proponent of inclusivity and activism in fashion and is an outspoken proponent of capturing the Black American experience within his clothes. Subsequently, he has created garments featuring slogans like “STOP CALLING 911 ON THE CULTURE” and “Fix Your Credit Pool Money Buy Back The Block.”
According to Vanity Fair, his last September show, for example, was dedicated to uncovering “stories of black peoples’ contribution to popular American culture.”
Romeo Hunte
Brooklyn-based Romeo Hunte counts A-listers like Beyoncé and Zendaya as fans — no surprise given the brand’s mix of timeless silhouettes in unexpected designs and its coveted outwear styles. He founded his eponymous label in 2013 with the vision to create modern, classic apparel that is luxurious, practical and transitional.
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Studio One Eighty Nine
CFDA Lexus Sustainable Fashion Award-winning brand Studio 189 was founded by Rosario Dawson and Abrima Erwiah to help City of Joy, a centre for women affected by sexual violence in the Democratic Republic of Congo.
The fashion company features ready-to-wear pieces fashioned out of ethical fabrics and using natural dyes. Headquartered in Ghana, the brand works with local artisans in these communities to produce African and African-inspired apparel and accessories.
Telfar
Telfar Clemens started Telfar in 2005, saying from the beginning that his line is for everyone. The brand has a cult following, thanks to its sleek logo bag which has been dubbed “Bushwick Birkin.” The brand’s motto pretty much sums up its aesthetic: “It’s not for you — it’s for everyone.”
Thebe Magugu
In 2019, Thebe Magugu was the first designer from Africa to be awarded the LVMH Prize. This past February, he recently made his runway debut during Paris Fashion Week, where he presented a collection with modern takes on shirting, colourful prints and elegant dresses.
His namesake label is a contemporary womenswear brand that is inspired and defined by South Africa, where he intends to build his business, keeping the entire production cycle on the continent.
Tia Adeola
Nigeria-born, London-raised, and New York-based designer Teniola “Tia” Adeola began designing in her Parsons dorm room in 2017, under the name Slashed by Tia. Fashion-conscious celebrities took note — Gigi Hadid wore a tangerine-coloured creation a few years back, and the likes of SZA and Kali Uchis have since followed suit.
Adeola has since changed her brand name from Slashed by Tia to her moniker Tia Adeola as a reflection of a more ambitious, expanded vision for her designs. Tia Adeola also made her official solo runway debut at New York Fashion Week AW 2020 where she revealed the name change.
Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner launched her label Wales Bonner in 2014, winning the prestigious LVMH Prize, the Fashion Award for Emerging Talent and the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2019. The UK-based men’s and women’s wear designer embraces soft silhouettes and impeccable tailoring that explore her European and African heritage and history, using her designs as a direct response to notions of race and gender.
Over the past few years, she has collaborated with the likes of Dior and has been worn by some of the most famous women in the world. She was notably chosen by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex for her first post-pregnancy appearance when she introduced her son Archie to the world.
Whether shopping for sleek ready-to-wear, straight-up high-fashion gowns or streetwear, by supporting black-owned fashion labels you can make difference by voting with your dollar. Representation of black designers in the industry is growing, but we have a long way to go for equality in the fashion world.
Main image: Courtesy of Maki Oh.