The runway of the International Emerging Designer show at this year’s iD Dunedin Fashion Week saw some incredible new talent. We spoke to Damir Begović, Lisa Liu and Katie Clark about what their win means to them and the next step in their careers.
International Emerging Designer Award Winner: Damir Begović
Inspired by Haute Couture and Slavonian folk costumes, “EX-vonia” explores the migration of Slavonian natives and the resulting loss of cultural identity and heritage. Using motifs and traditional techniques closely connected to the Slavonian folk costume and attire, the designer handworked gold and silver embroidery and produced an original print showing magnified golden embroidery, based on photographing original folk scarfs. Other materials in the collection include hand-cut leather heated to create a swelled, 3D effect, woollen fabrics, velvet, cotton, tricot, glass, fur, jersey, tartan, and water-resistant polyester.
Congratulations on winning the International Emerging Designer H & J Smith First Place award! How did you feel when you heard your name called as the winner?
I was in shock! I honestly didn’t expect to win. Firstly, I didn’t even come to Dunedin for winning, I came for a good experience and to meet people around the world. The next day when I realised I had actually won I was very happy and my family and friends in Croatia were even happier.
What does winning this award mean to you?
It means a lot. First that people so far away from my home recognised my work and my inspiration and secondly I hope this win will bring some new opportunities.
Describe your collection in 5 words.
Unique, one-of-a-kind, powerful, storyteller.
How did you become involved in iD Emerging Designers?
I was working on my Graduate Collection and my mentor sent me an application for iD Emerging Designers competition. So I applied half an hour before it was closed and didn’t even know what would happen.
Who is your designer inspiration/favourite designer?
Well, everything around inspires me. Sometimes that is just something I see or feel or just think about something. Also, my dreams inspire me.
If you could be Creative Director for any house, which would it be?
Definitely, Christian Dior because his work inspires me most.
What’s next for you?
Well, I still have my writing part of my Graduation to do. So next month or two I’m focused on that. After that comes time for big decisions. Maybe I will stay in Croatia or I will move to some fashion capital and try to find an internship. However, one thing is that I will definitely work hard to achieve my dreams.
Lisa Liu
“Shooting Kites” is a response to the highly gendered military uniform – which represents the often sexualised masculine ideal. This collection subverts this expectation by transforming the uniform into something soft and feminine, revealing the fragility and vulnerability under the armoured shell.
Analysing air force uniforms from the WWII period, iconic garments like the bomber jacket and tactical assault vest are reconceptualised with volume introduced, stripping the uniform of its restrictive properties and reversing the design ethos of function-over-form. Garments are given multiple ways of wearing, transformability and reversibility while a bold colour palette reflects the designer’s love of colour and challenges the camouflage of military uniforms.
Congratulations on winning the Rodd & Gunn Second Place award! How did you feel when you heard your name called as the winner?
The first thing that went through my mind was, did I hear right? And then I was super excited.
What does winning this award mean to you?
I’m really grateful for this award. It means a lot that people can connect with my work.
Describe your collection in 5 words.
Optimistic, colourful, feminine, oversized and tactical.
How did you become involved in iD emerging designers?
Previous graduates from my university entered, so it’s something I found out about through them.
Who is your designer inspiration/favourite designer?
I love Craig Green and Miu Miu.
If you could be creative director for any house, which would it be?
My own!
Katie Clark
Initially exploring the relationship between clothing and what is considered masculine and feminine, this collection looks at the current shift towards female empowerment, which has resulted in a decidedly grown-up feel, using sharp hand tailoring combined with romantic pleats and ruffles to create a boldly feminist statement.
The clean lines and flowing shapes have clear Victorian influences, (based on strong female protagonists from Victorian literature ), but with a fresh, modern take on the period that never feels nostalgic, but rather hints at the decadence of the era. The delicate handling and abundance of fabrics add a richness and luxurious feel to the collection, creating fluidity around the female body during movement when worn. The monochrome palette emphasises the fullness of the silhouette, focusing on the tailoring of the shoulders as a symbol of power, whilst the use of luxury fabrics in volume and layers creates a contemporary look which has a more timeless approach to designing.
Congratulations on winning the Gallery De Novo Third Place award! How did you feel when you heard your name called as the winner?
Shocked and excited. Grateful to have been recognised amongst so many wonderful designers from around the world.
What does winning this award mean to you?
It means a lot that people in the fashion industry have recognised and understood my work and the message I have tried to convey.
Describe your collection in 5 words.
Feminine, sophisticated, tailored, modern, historic.
How did you become involved in iD emerging designers?
I was put forward for the competition by my tutors at university, to whom I’m very grateful not only for the opportunity but the support they have given me throughout.
Who is your designer inspiration/favourite designer?
I am influenced by female designers such as Maria Grazia Chiuri, Victoria Beckham and Pheobe Philo.
If you could be creative director for any house, which would it be?
Similar to the designers I take inspiration from, I would most want to work at the houses of Dior, Victoria Beckham and Celine.
Congratulations to the International Emerging Designer winners and finalists. The talent on display this year was exceptional and we anticipate bright futures for all the designers.
Images courtesy of iD Dunedin Fashion Week.
