John Galliano put forward a different sense of masculinity for Maison Margiela SS 2019 Menswear, based around the typologies of British tailoring, hunting, and fishing, and then accessing all the richness of decoration and cutting that is normally the preserve of women’s haute couture ateliers. That, and vinyl and leather. Result: an extreme, sexy glamour.
Galliano’s often talked recently about being inspired by the accidental gestures of “dressing in haste.” The action of throwing a jacket or coat over the shoulders was formalized into shape—pieces that looked regular from the front, but had the sleeves melded into cape form in the back. Something about that honored the tradition of Martin Margiela, whose prowess in making creative interventions in immaculate tailoring while he was at Hermès is now being exhibited at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs.
Still, this runway show was also an exhibition of Galliano’s own accumulation of powers. There were flashbacks to his moments with corsetry, with bullfighting and flamenco influences, his years in haute couture at Dior, and most importantly, the bias cutting he mastered and brought to the forefront of fashion in the ’90s. Now, he’s remastered the bias for men.
Credit: Vogue.com
