With the Balmain Spring 2018 collection, Olivier Rousteing played with new shapes, and one was a close long dress with a spurt of layered ruffle at the hem. Totally eye-catching, but movement-constricting, too.

The collection followed summer’s menswear in paying homage to La France via Breton marinière stripe rendered in monochrome paillette and softer stripes sometimes worn, also in sequin, over frayed bouclé shorts. These shorts were part of an unusual-for-Balmain section of daywear – but not every-daywear – that featured sweaters with V necklines so deep they ran almost to the ankle, atelier-encrusted frayed crop tops over gold studded leather pants, and check bouclé dungarees.

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